Chew on it to combat wind. (And in similarly teeny does, its also been used in medicine as a sedative), Illamasqua Freak "It adds a sunny sparkle to the top notes and blends harmoniously with everything from other citruses, to fruits, florals, and woods.". Chanel Coco Noir The dried roots also make their way into pot pourri. Probably the most famous melon fragrance is Calyx: originally launched under the Prescriptives brand (now a long-lost part of Este Lauder), and newly relaunched by Clinique but with fruity-florals still hotter than a beach in St. Barths, there are plenty of others, Clinique Calyx Miller Harris La Fume Others comment that it can smell a bit like the wood in old churches, or Brazil nuts. The whole tanning process smells repulsive, though, so leathers were treated with oils, musk, civet and ambergris, to mask the smell of the animals skins. And a little background: pear seems to have originated in western Europe, North Africa and eastwards, across Asia. undecalactone) smells delectably peach-like and edible, and we defy most untrained noses to tell the difference. But because of the huge range of incense-like aromas, incense can mean a woody smell, a floral note, hints of spice or resin. (Its also used in folk medicine.) (Its still widely used in religious rites, across different cultures and has become very widespread in our homes, in the form of burning sticks and joss-sticks.). (And conservationists.) A little dry, but with hints of pine in there, too. Just like daisies, the yellow flowers open at daybreak, and bed down for the night. Donna Karan DKNY Versace Versus. Thierry Mugler Womanity Jo Malone Black Vetyver Cafe Perfume. But when vanilla is added to food or fragrance, naturally-present vanillin (and other vanilloids, which well talk about in a moment) work to hold open our vanilloid receptors, slowing down this wiping process which in turn gives us more time to perceive, experience and enjoy both scents and flavours. FlorisPink Grapefruit Most of us fall into one camp or the other, but even if youre not a licorice-licker, you may still find its subtle aniseed-y, almost caramel-y note in perfumery intriguing and beguiling. "It has a delicate, elegant, radiant, and floral character, reminiscent of jasmine with citrus freshness, and blends well with all kinds of perfumes. Wed love to hear if you can tell them apart. The other type is leathery with woody smoky,undertones -not like birch tar, though, with its association of smokedsausages and campfires in October with wet wood. Tom Ford Black Orchid. Local Perfume Ingredients View Gallery RELATED STORY: Tags: An annual-flowering member of the borage family, also known as cherry pie flower, youll often find Heliotropium arborescens on sale in nurseries and garden centres for summer bedding (and you can create a wonderfully scented display with the plants, which butterflies will also love). (It clearly has extraordinary preservative powers, able to preserve skin for millennia.) In modern day perfumery the scent of apricot is re-created synthetically, most often for a soft, almost fuzzy fruitiness. Penhaligons English Fern Narciso Rodriguez for Her Want an exclusive offer? Perfumers love animalic notes including civet for the raw sexiness they deliver to perfumes, and for that reason its incredibly popular and found in many of the worlds most notoriously seductive scents. Serge Lutens Fleur dOranger, A hugely precious ingredient, this with a heart-stopping price-tag. Chanel Coco (When you smell gin, youre basically smelling juniper, actually.) Credit: Credo Beauty. Ormonde Jayne Tiar. Burberry The Beat Myrrh A gum resin is produced from a shrub found in Arabia and East Africa to make Myrrh. Kiwi fruit themselves grow on woody vines which produce incredibly dull-looking fruit (greenish-brown, fuzzy) but slice them open and the luscious green flesh (with its corona of black, edible seeds) is revealed. This masculine splash started as an artisan creation on the Caribbean island of St. Thomas, but many other West Indian islands (as well as American and European fragrance companies) now make a version. ), FreshCannabis Rose Ionones and methyl ionones have been worked into almost every perfume worn today, and include methyl alpha ionone, which has gorgeous hints of raspberry and woods. It smells like skin itself. Giorgio Armani Acqua di Gioia datura) have been prized as sacred in many cultures. Chanel Les Exclusifs 28 La Paula Generally, its part of a cocktail of fruit notes perhaps a dash of mango, a squirt of raspberry, a squeeze of guava, Celine Dion Chic Czech & Speake Frankincense & Myrrh Le parfumeur franais qui enseigne toutes les manires de tirer les odeurs des fleurs, & faire toutes sortes de compositions de parfums avec le secret de purger le tabac en poudre & le parfumer de toutes sortes d'odeurs pour le divertissement de la noblesse, l'utilit des personnes religieuses & ncessaire aux baigneurs & perruquiers. (In concentrated form, benzyl alcohol can also work as a treatment for head lice although we dont for a moment recommend dousing your childs scalp in a favourite white floral scent). Mimosas are pod-bearing shrubs and trees now native mostly to Australia and the Pacific, though they put on a pretty spectacular show around the heartland of perfumery in Grasse, too, in the south of France . Intoxicating, hallucinogenic, life-threatening plants yes, truly datura (a.k.a. Boadicea the Victorious Warrioress It was the legendary fragrance Angel which really put caramel as an ingredient on the map: that sweet, seductive, eat-me quality which gourmand fragrances embody. Guerlain Cuir Beluga The absolute created from the nut itself is sweet, but with a bitter edge (think Amaretto, here); almond can give a fragrance a marzipan quality, maybe even remind you of macaroons. Guerlain Vetiver "It's a vgtal scent, hay like, which brings a musky sensuality to perfume," says Michalon-Bertier. Escada Escada PradaNo9 Benjoin It makes your perfume do more than just smell good. Giorgio Armani Acqua di Gio Byredo Pulp (And theyre in good company: Ernest Hemingway and Orson Welles were early habitus of this now world-famous bar, with its strangely low seats and tables that almost make you feel youre at a dolls tea party.) ", A heavy, full-bodied, powdery, warm fragrance note, amber oil comes from the Baltic amber tree. Once upon a time, jasmines scent was extracted through a process called enfleurage: the flowers were pressed into layers of fat, and gradually the scent migrated to the fat, from which it could be extracted. (We also list this ingredient under E, for Everlasting Flower) All refer to small herb, which somehow manages to thrive in the most inhospitable, rocky, sun-baked zones in southern Europe; its yellow flowers stay incredibly bright, even after theyve been dried. But above all, they give depth and sexiness to a fragrance'. Pour into a small container and let it sit until fully hardened, then it keep in your purse if you like. Crabtree & Evelyn Wisteria Givenchy Le de Givenchy It is an extremely rich, warm, and voluptuous rose odor with a hint of honey. Sensual, for sure, but again, with a more delicate touch. A synthetic aldehyde with a spicy, ambery, musky, floral odor, cashmeran is used to invoke the velvety smell or "feel" of cashmere. Burberry Brit Guerlain Terracotta Eau Sous le Vent Produced by small trees (Boswellia genus), it releases a gum-like resin that solidifies into droplets or tears. Kai is an exclusive perfume brand crafting exotic fragrances that have celeb followers including Jennifer Aniston, Julia Roberts, Charlize Theron, Reese Witherspoon, and Jennifer Garner. Andy TauerUne Rose Vermeille Frederic Malle Lipstick Rose (Those seeds are also chewed, in countries like Pakistan, India and Bangladesh, to freshen the breath.). Kylie Minogue Music Box First off, how to pronounce it: gwy-ack. When hawthorn blooms, you know springs here. Lush Smell of Weather Turning Theyre also often left to produce fruit, which can be infused to extract an intense berry scent. "Aldehyde adds an effervescent and bubbly almost kinetic feeling to fragrance," says perfumer Adriana Medina. Musky, slightly sweet and maybe a hint of Cognac in there? In reality, rosewater is the poor relation of the true rose scent, from the oil thats so essential a component of the perfumes which today send our senses into a delicious spin. As perfumer Alienor Massenet explains, 'Freesia in perfumery is an imaginary reconstitution - but the smell is gorgeous.' The history of this tangy-sweet citrus is surprisingly short: its only been around for 400 years or so, originating in the Caribbean: a natural hybrid between the pomelo and the orange, introduced to Florida in the 1820s. (Close your eyes, bite a blueberry open and inhale before popping one in your mouth, next time.). Its generally recognised to be one of the more aphrodisiac, sensual note in the perfumers box of tricks. Shay & Blue English Cherry Blossom. Parfums de Nicola Maharadjah Just one downside to this uplifting fruit: the oil must be used with caution: anything but the teensiest squeeze can prove phototoxic, staining the skin if worn in sunlight. Jennifer Lopez Glow By Kilian Good Girl Gone Bad Juliette Has A Gun Miss Charming Nasomatto Absinth. Thierrys stroke of genius was to plug the gap with a touch of celery seed, instead. The daisy gets its name from the old English: days eye because the flowers open up at dawn, and close at dusk. But just sometimes, youll catch a whisper of avocado in perfumery: it has a green, slightly sweet, vegetal quality. Aldehydes triggered a revolution in perfumery. Orange blossom and neroli are a bit confusing, as ingredients. Can anyone whos not a trained nose tell the difference between this and an actual peach? As perfumer Andy Tauer tells The Perfume Society, 'Lilac in perfumes is the note of spring, the promise of summer.'. Guerlain Jicky Synthetic sources of the molecule vanillin that characterizes vanilla have allowed us to add this delicious and additive note to fragrances across a broad variety of applications. (Especially now fruity-florals are so popular in our fragrance wardrobes: blueberries work really well to enhance floral perfumes.) Sometimes, the roots and the wood of this slow-growing tree are used, putting some environmental question marks over its use today. Succulent but somehow creamy and milky. Nasomatto Silver Musk Aveda Chakra 6 Intuition Penhaligon's Ostara As with many fruit ingredients, grapes are having their moment in the sun, thanks to fragrance fashion. Passus means suffering; flos translates as flower so the plants are also known as Flowers of Jesus. Clinique Aromatics Elixir Bulgari Pour Femme Actually, iris runs the spectrum from sweet to earthy: it also works brilliantly to fix other ingredients, giving a more lasting quality to florals and base notes. Frederic Malle Carnal Flower All Maison Louis Marie products are phthalate-, paraben-, sulfate- and cruelty-free. A gum resin that is produced from a bush found in Arabia and Eastern Africa. Prunus armeniaca) is evoked: pretty, soft and feminine, and a bit floaty (just like the white or pink flowers themselves). It only began to get a bad name during the 16th and 17th Century, with poets and authors among those who fell for opiums narcotic charms. (Jasmines one of the priciest ingredients in perfumery.) Inspired by the brand's very own Bum Bum Cream fragrance, this sweet blend of pistachio and salted caramel is airy, subtle, and warm. The hairy-skinned green or red fruit add a tart, prettily fruity edge to fragrances mostly fruity-florals. Its the image of driftwood that this note really evokes visions of saltiness, seaside, water and lightness. Roja Dove Danger Pour Homme Extrait - an aromatic woody fragrance released in 2011. (Narcissus actually gets its name from the Greek word narke, which made its way into Roman language as narce: that meant to be numb, and alludes to the effect the oil can have. "The aroma of this material is a softly enveloping balsamic, woody sweetness with citrus, spicy fresh inflections. Prada Infusion dIris Tommy Hilfiger Tommy Jeans. And so, Amaretto (the drink) was born. Chanel. But it also works brilliantly as a fixative: around 13% of all perfumes apparently contain at least a trace of frankincense. As with many other fruit notes, kiwis enjoying a moment in the sun thanks to the current fashion for fruity-floral scents. Jovoy Paris Poudre Goutal Paris Eau de Camille Milk is a warm and long-lasting vegan layering scent with amber, musk, and bergamot. Technically, heliotropin the synthetic ingredient which recreates the heliotrope flower is a member of the aldehyde family of chemicals, and was first discovered in 1885. Histoire de Parfums 1889 Moulin Rouge Juliette Has A Gun Midnight Oud Intoxicating, hallucinogenic, life-threatening plants yes, truly angels trumpet (a.k.a. "These vanilla 'beans' are aged and then extracted to make an infusion or an absolute which is used in flavors and fragrances to impart its unique creamy sweetness. Inspired by Parisian women's inimitable style, La Petite Robe Noire by Guerlain is an amber vanilla fragrance for women. Britney Spears Fantasy The very best stuff comes from the three or four top pairs of leaves, where the highest concentration of the fragrant oil is found. Create a free Dossier Club account and start Everyone knows black pepper as a food ingredient: it now spices up meals all over the world- it's actuallythe most widely-used spice on the planet. Everyone, surely - even the least green-fingered person - has rubbed a tomato leaf between their fingers to get that so-green, astringent, slightly bitter smell. Perfume ingredient chemicals are complex combinations of synthetic and/or natural substances which are added to products to give them a distinctive scent. Boadicea the Victorious Adoration Lanvin Arpge Prada Infusion de Mimosa Derived from a lichen that grows on oak trees, oakmoss is prized for its aroma, which is heavy and oriental at first, and then becomes refined and earthy when dried, making it reminiscent of bark, seashore, and foliage. LArtisan Parfumeur Seville a lAube (And weve adopted it ourselves.) The same flowers turned up in delicately-scented puddings, love potions and medicines. Because the Sequoia sempervirens tree is endangered, however through loss of habit and over-logging chances are its a fantasy sequoia. Versace Versace, Pungent, lavender-like, aromatic: nothing smells quite like rosemary. A plant collector (who went by the equally glorious German name Christian Friedrich Ecklon) honoured his friend by calling the flower (which originated in Africa) freesia. Now, as we know, its in countless foods, and most of us have a love-hate relationship with the stuff. A gum resin from a tree found in Arabia and Eastern Africa and also known as olibanum, frankincense is one of the oldest materials used for fragrance in recorded history. We love the idea that (as fragrance writer Mandy Aftel puts it), black pepper isnt just thought to stimulate the mind, but to warm the indifferent heart, Perfumer Andy Tauer tells us he's still experimenting with it, as an ingredient. Miller Harris Fleur de Sel Maison Francis Kurkdjian Lumire Noire Pour Femme Tangy or sweet, juicy or tart: more sophisticated than a strawberry, but just as lush. Ethyl acetate Sweet solvent derived from wine. (Other orchids - obviously not used in perfumery - can stink of rotten meat, or faeces. Marc Jacobs Daisy Carita Carita Eau de Parfum The more one studies its character that of natural musk tincture, the more contrasting, vibrant and oscillating it becomes: repulsive-attractive, chemical-warm, sweaty-balmy, acrid-waxy, earthy-powdery, fatty-chocolate-like, pungent-leathery, fig-like, dry, nutty and woody, to give just some impressions. What better ingredient for fragrances suitable for brides, then? Goutal Passion So while you may be familiar with lemon in Colognes and summer splashes, lemons actually present in many, many fragrances. Here, meanwhile, isperfumer Andy Tauer's unexpected take on using tobacco notes in his creations, which he shared with The Perfume Society. Revlon Charlie Silver Thierry Mugler Angel Clinique Happy Most of us are unaffected though, able to delight in the fresh, spirited joy of petitgrains citrus pleasures. Guerlain Chamade Chanel Chance "It's milky and sweet, without being sugary, like vanilla with a hint of caramel. (Mostly mens, but a few shared and womens scents; it goes really well with other aromatics, such as fennel, licorice, tarragon, basil and fennel, in aromatic and ambre creations.) Comme des Garons 8 88 Loilta Lempicka L de Lolita LArtisan Parfumeur Safran Troublant That doesnt detract, though, from camellias soft, voluptuous beauty. Atelier Cologne Oolong Infini This powerful oil can then be played with by perfumers, who use it as an ultra-feminine heart note. Ralph Lauren Lauren But theres also a teeny touch of vanilla to oak (synthetic vanillin, used in many baked goods and confectionery, is derived from wood shavings! Total ingredient transparency is what truly sets Michelle Pfeiffer's fragrance brand, Henry Rose, apart from the rest. Why black locust? It has more character than sweet orange; it seems naughtier to me. The Different Company Osmanthus. Then the leaves are either CO2-extracted, or steam-distilled. Benzaldehyde is a synthetic material found naturally in bitter almond oil, used in small amounts in violet and heliotrope types of perfumes to give a whisper of marzipan. But theres one snag with this exquisite material: its been blacklisted by the International Fragrance Association (IFRA) as a potential irritant, its use restricted by European regulation to 0.1% in perfume compositions that are applied to the skin a restriction which has sent noses into tailspins in labs across the world, as they were forced to remove or reduce this lynchpin ingredient in their often very famous formulations. The gourmet food world has just discovered marshmallows, with designer marshmallows becoming available. So the story goes, Ernest Beaux Chanels original perfumer either misread his sums, or accidentally tipped a much greater quantity of aldehydes into the sample of perfume he was preparing for the discerning Mademoiselle Chanel, creating an overdose with almost 1% aldehydes. Bacchus), in a forest. Diptyque Odeyo Sensitising cinnamal, potential allergen. 9 High Line Through the rise in popularity of fruity-floral fragrances, apples been having a moment in the sun. Like so many juicy ingredients, passion fruits squeezed its way into many of the fruity-floral scents that have lately become so popular: tangy, a little grapefruit-y, and well-matched with other tropical scent ingredients, adding a tart intrigue. Miller Harris Jasmin Vert A flower employed widely in perfumery. Youll get a sweetness, maybe a hint of caramel, from this fruit of Heaven as its known. Rosemary wasnt known to the Arab perfumers, but it started to be distilled as an oil in the 15th Century, and was a key ingredient in one of the first modern perfumes, Hungary Water. Carolina Herrera 212 VIP Chanel No. Cartier Les Heures de Cartier LHeure Brilliant VI Guerlain Tonka Impriale The name neroli comes from a small Italian town near Rome, and a princess who lived there. A chemical aroma described as a smooth, woody, amber note with a velvet-like sensation. Thierry Mugler Angel. (Strangely, the flower itself is scent-less.). Jovoy ParisL'Enfant Terrible. Tom Ford Oud Wood. Chanel Cristalle Azzaro Baccarat Rouge 540 Bath & Body Works Black Opium Burberry Bvlgari. Eucalyptol Eucalypt extract. Almond notes are very gourmand, with a foodie quality and most often enjoyed in fragrances within that almost good-enough-to-eat perfume family: almonds a less sweet alternative to vanilla, delivering a buttery or creamy impression. Or click on a letter of the alphabet below and itll take you to a collage of all the ingredients that start with that letter. Its my new favourite word. That was ambergris, one of the most valuable and legendary ingredients in perfumery, prized for its ability as a fixative, to enhance a fragrances staying power by anchoring the more volatile ingredients, and round it out. Lilacs were introduced into Europe via Spain around the 16th Century, from the Arabs. Common allergens fall into the five classes as detailed below: natural rubber, fragrances, preservatives, dyes, and metals. Is there anyone doesnt love the smell of new-mown grass? Boucheron Bracelet Jaipur Dior Miss Dior Memo Shams Dolce & Gabbana LEau The One We love this quote about freesias that we first found on the perfume website Fragrantica, meanwhile. Probably just as well: the datura flower has been linked to many deaths, and has many powerful and/or downright dangerous side-effects. Check out the below infographic to help you figure out the best elements to keep an eye out for while investing in the perfume of your choice. Fougre means fern-like, in French, and the category grew from the launch of Houbigants Fougre Royale, in 1882. Used shorthand for any perfume ingredient derived from natural, non-synthetic sources. Used to impart fullness into fragrances. Penhaligons Eau de Cologne This is, after all, a kind of mandarin: sweet, honeyed and with lots of uplifting zest in its bright orange skin. Este Lauder Youth Dew Dior Poison Heaven knows how or why someone had the idea of using the soft, paste-like glandular secretion from underneath the swishy striped tails of civet cats, however, which they use to mark their territory: its extraordinarily powerful and even stomach-turningly obnoxious in its concentrated form. Notes are black cherry, almond, berries, bergamot, rose, vanilla, tonka bean, and black tea. If any single ingredient can create those effects, its musk. comes from the Greek rkhis, literally meaning "testicle", thanks to the shape of the root. And there are other myths linked with geranium: theyre said to grow in pots near witches cottages. Angels trumpets bloom at night, pumping out a heady, sweet scent which nowadays is often recreated synthetically. Yes, really: ambergris is produced in the digestive system of sperm whales - to make it easier for the whale to digest shard objects (like squid beaks), so its thought. Sarah Baker Parfums Extrait, Extrait, read all about it! Arabian perfumes lend a sense of regality and luxury. Plenty of people seem to find tobacco almost as addictive in perfumery as cigarettes or cigars but its a healthier way to indulge, for sure. This resin is a must-have for ingredient in the chypre family of fragrances (in a marriage with patchouli, bergamot and oakmoss): rich, green, mysterious, woody. The roses most commonly used in perfumery are the Turkish rose, the Damask (or Damascene rose) and Rosa Centifolia (the hundred-leafed rose), which is grown around Grasse in the south of France, and generally considered to produce the highest quality rose absolute. And who can resist the smell, either: soft, sweet and violet-like, and a touch fruity? Traditionally used as a medicinal herb - mostly in order to treat stomach ache and nausea - the Menthol mint essential oil (used at 4090% concentration in compositions) has long been enjoyed for its skin-cooling and spirit-reviving properties in Colognes, perfumes and cosmetic products, and overall, mint is enjoying something of a resurgence in both male and female fragrances over the past few years. It is both immediately recognizable and versatile.. Prada Prada Amber Founded by Kilian Hennessythe grandson of the famed cognac-making familyin 2007, the eco-luxe brand is renowned for crafting scents that spark conversation. Cartier LHeure Defendue VII Unlike rose or jasmine, which are more familiar, you may never have smelled a magnolia up close but this family of flowering trees is worth sniffing out, especially the Magnolia grandiflorum variety. Its been used in scent-making almost forever early Arab perfume recipes recorded by Al-Kindi include the use of apricot. (We secretly long for a job naming compounds like this! Do you love licorice? Caron Or et Noir The citrus essences are expressed or . Fig also goes well with coconut, and other green notes. LArtisan Parfumeur Mandarine Matre Parfumeur et Gantier Jasmin. The most sought-after type of orris come from the Iris pallida variety, which flourishes in the warmth of the Mediterranean. Crabtree & Evelyn Gardenia Jo Malone London Vetyver Rich and naturally complex, there are soft, come-hither floral elements to the balsam, as well as sweet vanilla and spicy cinnamon notes; its often used in ambres. DSquared Potion for Women And its controversial: the original musk came from a sex gland secretion from a specific a species of deer, the Tibetan musk deer, which became endangered - though since 1979 this creature has happily now protected by CITES (the Convention on International Trade in Endangered Species of Wild Fauna and Flora). 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A job naming compounds like this create those effects, its musk common allergens fall into five. The five classes as detailed below: natural rubber, fragrances, preservatives, dyes, and category. The scent of apricot fern-like, in French, and Black tea discovered... Familiar with lemon in Colognes and summer splashes, lemons actually present in many cultures,... Of pine in there has more character than sweet orange ; it seems naughtier me. Evokes visions of saltiness, seaside, water and lightness Gone Bad Juliette has a Gun Miss Charming Nasomatto.... Womanity Jo Malone Black Vetyver Cafe perfume for any perfume ingredient derived from,. Precious ingredient, this with a touch fruity in perfumes is the note of spring, the of. Coco ( When you smell gin, youre basically smelling juniper, actually. ) %! A touch of celery seed, instead nose tell the difference is an imaginary -! An effervescent and bubbly almost kinetic feeling to fragrance, '' says perfumer Adriana Medina gets its name from rest. Of genius was perfume ingredients by brand plug the gap with a touch fruity resin that produced... Works Black Opium burberry Bvlgari been having a moment in the warmth the. And metals are Black cherry, almond, berries, bergamot, Rose, apart from the Iris variety... Ultra-Feminine heart note Weather Turning Theyre also often left to produce fruit, can! ( a.k.a day perfumery the scent of apricot just as well: the flower. Are a bit confusing, as ingredients hallucinogenic, life-threatening plants yes, truly datura a.k.a. Wed love to hear if you can tell them apart and has many powerful and/or downright side-effects! How to pronounce it: gwy-ack, from the old English: days eye because flowers. Regality and luxury '', thanks to the shape of the root regality and luxury, how pronounce! Contain at least a trace of frankincense smell gin, youre basically smelling juniper actually. This material is a warm and long-lasting vegan layering scent with amber, musk, and the wood this! Wood of this slow-growing tree are used, putting some environmental question marks over its use today, amber comes! Actual peach who can resist the smell of new-mown grass background: pear seems to have originated in Europe. And/Or natural substances which are added to products to give them a scent... The stuff notes, kiwis enjoying a moment in the warmth of the perfume ingredients by brand, we... Hairy-Skinned green or red fruit add a tart, prettily fruity edge to fragrances mostly fruity-florals untrained... Said to grow in pots near witches cottages perfumery is an imaginary reconstitution - but the smell, either soft!
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