The The important parameters of a wave are its amplitude, wavelength, and speed. Select one: Causes of shifts in relative elevation of land and sea along a coast include, Beach replenishment projects that add sand to eroding beaches. A Delta B. rip current C. longshore current D.groin. The current is called longshore Articles. Select one: A. sea arch B. estuary C. tombolo D. spit, Chesapeake Bay and Delaware Bay are ________. The backwash, however carries the material back down the beach at right angles (90) as this is the steepest gradient. The relation between the free stream Mach . Longshore currents and longshore drift are caused by waves approaching the beach at an oblique angle. Considering the figure shown, which of the following statements is TRUE? B. Capacity Of the 3 forms which is the groin? A. pebbles caught in swirling eddies of water Introduction. b. pneumonectomy Mar 29, 2018. When would you expect to see the strongest waves on the coast? The orthogonals of wave crests approaching a . 2.The right panel of Figure 7A-1 shows wave crests approaching the shore from a different oblique angle. a. Select one: a.is straight. d. warm and salty, An isotope has the same number of ___________ but different number of __________. Longshore drift - The zigzag movement of sand and pebbles along a shore caused by waves going up the beach at an oblique angle (swash) and returning at right angles (backwash). Material rolled along the streambed. Based on these features, the area is likely to be ______. Click to view larger image. Refraction is the process that describes a change in direction of a wave as it approaches the coast. d. All of the choices are correct. Turbulent water created by breaking waves is known as ____. Now all of the initial wave energy is concentrated in a relatively small area off of the point, creating large, high energy waves (Figure 10.3.6). Select one: c. Isotopic composition of glacial ice. Spring tides occur in conjunction with the full moon or the new moon. Slide 3. The steepness or slope of a stream channel in the direction of flow is the channel's Erosional retreat of a _____ leads to enlargement and extension of a wave-cut platform in the inland direction. True or false, The daily tidal range is of the least magnitude during This will cause that shallower part of the wave to slow down first, while the rest of the wave that is still in deeper water will continue on at its regular speed. a. Oblique shocks are generated by the nose and by the leading edge of the wing and tail of a supersonic aircraft. a. Downstream floods happen quickly in response to localized rainfall Which of the following shoreline features is a result of erosion? In the northern hemisphere, the Coriolis effect causes surface currents in the ocean to be deflected slightly _____ compared to the winds that cause them. A plot of stream stage or discharge versus time. D. Dissolved ions such as calcium and sodium, ________ is the proportion of dissolved salts to pure water. a. the land is being tectonically uplifted and is rising faster than the sea Want to create or adapt books like this? ________ is the innermost tissue layer in an artery. A. Marble c. only spilling breakers occur, producing very little erosion, even over millions of years D. the Dust Bowl states of the Great Plains, Streams erode downward until they reach ________. a. Decreases with a warming climate because of clouds that result from increased evaporation of sea water. Match the definition on the left with the correct Though usually linear, the waterline can . Includes the area from which surface water flows into a stream segment. So the crest of the wave gets ahead of the rest of the wave, but has no water underneath it to support it (Figure 10.3.1). b. the tidal range is so small that there has been little erosion, even over millions of years By the 1960s and 1970s, realistic young adult novels began to confront contemporary problems and At 55 the decomposition of N2O5 is first order, having a rate constant, k = 1.7 10-3 s-1. b. when winds blow off-shore Usingwhatyoumayalreadyknow,identifythemeaningofthesuffixofmedicalterms. The pattern of wave crests illustrates the effects of an irregular coast on approaching waves. A. an oxbow b. curves toward the shore. c. Base level. Is part of a positive feedback cycle, where the increased albedo due to clouds causes a reduction in solar energy that reaches the earth, thus resulting in cooling. b. Traps gamma rays and thereby reduces global warming. For now, were going to take a look at the processes that occur as a wave approaches the coast. Longshore currents are formed when incoming waves approach the shore at an oblique angle. 12th month 79 AD, Casterly Rock So. A bay mouth bar is an example of hard stabilization. The Larger arrows represent a larger swell- in this case larger waves will be located further up the beach, while smaller waves will be located closer to the spit. Sitting in her small chambers in Casterly Rock, Alyssa still hadn't quite come to terms with her new surroundings. D. submarine canyon, Artesian wells may be nonflowing. A hydrograph is: a. long, wide beaches Select one: A. associated with a submergent coast B. excellent examples of large estuaries C. former river valleys that were flooded by a rise in sea level D. all of the above, One result of wave refraction is that wave energy is concentrated ________. During a storm, Select one: a. Author links open overlay panel Eduardo Lpez-Ramade a, Ryan P. Mulligan b, Gabriela Medelln a, Alec Torres-Freyermuth a. The wave crests are moving through water that becomes uniformly shallower toward the shore. b. in the medical field. A map showing the extent of a floodplain As we will see in section 13.2, the fact that the waves do not arrive perfectly parallel to the beach causes longshore currents and longshore transport that run parallel to the shore. This page titled 12.10: Longshore Currents and Longshore Drift is shared under a not declared license and was authored, remixed, and/or curated by Miracosta Oceanography 101 (Miracosta)) via source content that was edited to the style and standards of the LibreTexts platform; a detailed edit history is available upon request. . Waves approaching a beach at an oblique angle ______. Longshore currents and beach drift ______. a. Traps visible rays and thereby promotes global warming. Thanks for providing feedback. The swash (waves moving up the beach) carries material up and along the beach. The swash carries the sand and pebbles up the beach at the same angle. Diagram B shows the situation after urbanization. Select one: Matchthedefinitionontheleftwiththecorrecttermitisdescribingontheright. 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A graph of variations in precipitation through time, a. a. d. An alluvial fan. d. Long shore current. cause coasts to switch from submergence to emergence. c. Will not affect sea level; melting of land ice will cause a rise in sea level. Select one: Overall water level falls due to the low air pressure associated with storms. d. many tombolos. Accessibility StatementFor more information contact us atinfo@libretexts.orgor check out our status page at https://status.libretexts.org. Select one: A. on spits B. in bays, coves, and other recessed areas between headlands C. on tombolos D. on headlands projecting into the water, Waves begin to "feel or touch bottom" at a depth that is less than one-half their wavelength. It is shown analytically that, in the limit of normal incidence, the value of a approaches the well-known classical result a 0 = m 1/2 and, for glancing incidence, Whitham's (1979) result is confirmed where the value approaches either 1 or 0 depending on whether the beach angle is or is not an angle at which a new Ursell edge wave mode . Waves begin to "feel bottom" at a depth that is 1/2 of their wave length. The aim of this paper is the proposal of a new methodological approach for the assessment of their susceptibility to erosive processes. Examine the figure. A 200-year flood has a recurrence interval of, on the average, once every 200 years. Generally, storm winds determine the size of the waves. B. deep-ocean trench Select one: With around-the-clock expert help and a community of over 250,000 knowledgeable members, you can find the help you need, whenever you need it. A. the fetch The discharge of a stream is: d. All of the choices are correct. As this sheet of water moves on and off the beach, it can transport beach sediment back out to sea. IncorrectFEEDBACK: Meanders are a sign of a well-developed, old stream channel; waterfalls and rapids are signs of youth; and a point bar is a place of deposition, not erosion. Select one: Most familiar are surface waves that travel on water, but sound, light, and the motion of subatomic particles all exhibit wavelike properties. Objects floating in the longshore current move in a zigzag pattern up and down the beach as it moves down current. If the. c. Downstream floods can occur even if prolonged rain events happen upstream The step-like ridge on the beach, which is developed by waves, is termed the: The overall flow of water parallel to the coast and just below the wave breaking zone is termed: That area along the coast where waves break and water laps up and down on the beach is termed: The process of moving sediment along the beach in a zigzag fashion is known as: The net movement of sediment on the beach is: Most of the sediment drift along the coast occurs: For beach drift to occur, this has to be present: If one were to construct a concrete wall perpendicular to the coastline (a groin) what would happen to beach drift: If the beach consisted of very large boulders, beach drift would: If waves temporarily switch directions along the coast, as they do with changing storm locations, what would happen? c. Dissolved material in solution. Select one: A. cause coasts to switch from submergence to emergence B. make tides rise and fall C. cause beach drift D. cause hard stabilizati, Which of the following shoreline features is a result of deposition? Waves move sediments along the beach in a zigzag A meander. C. 20 and 30 _____ is rising of cold water from deeper layers to replace warmer surface water. This last one shows waves refracting around the spit at Aromoana in Dunedin, NZ. a. A flood event of that size has a 1 percent probability of occurrence in the next year. equal to one-half the wavelength equal to the fetch. This wave refraction causes the entire wave crest to progressively rotate toward being . Select one: A. groin B. breakwater C. seawall D. all of the above, _______ are huge circular-moving current systems that dominate the surface of the ocean within an ocean basin. Oblique waves may eventually coalesce and form oblique shocks or spread out to form an expansion wave. It is associated with a similar depth zone marked by a change in density, called the ________. Select one: A flood event of that size has a 1 percent probability of occurrence in the next year. b. calculated by dividing its cross-sectional area by its velocity. Select one: Our approach is based on the numerical simulations of tsunami waves, performed by the code UBO-TSUFD, developed in the University of Bologna. The LibreTexts libraries arePowered by NICE CXone Expertand are supported by the Department of Education Open Textbook Pilot Project, the UC Davis Office of the Provost, the UC Davis Library, the California State University Affordable Learning Solutions Program, and Merlot. d. 18O, Surface currents in Fig. Explaination: Longshore cu . c. The oceans are warmed by the evaporation process. Which of the following shoreline features is a result of deposition? b. Volcanic ash deposits in glacial ice. ____ are large circular-moving currents of water within an ocean basin. A. spit Dust storms Select one: A. move in opposite directions B. are found only in deep water, and never close to the shore C. are oriented at 90 to each other D. both have net movement that is parallel to the shore, Which of the following shoreline features is a result of erosion? Will cause a lowering of sea level. RGB) band orthomosaics of a larger nearshore area . Select one: A. hard stabilization makes the coast more scenic for recreation B. beach nourishment is permanent C. beach nourishment is expensive D. hard stabilization may increase erosion, Which of the following is an example of "hard stabilization" designed to prevent or retard shoreline erosion? b. D. all of the above, Where would you go to find "black smokers" (deep sea hydrothermal vents)? LO1.3, ____________removal of The longshore current is an ocean current created in the surf zone by approach and back flow of waves. a. agoraphobia d. If a cutoff were to form across the neck (from X to Y), an oxbow lake would be created. The movement of sand parallel to the shore is crea Question: Figure 7A-1 depicts ocean wave crests approaching the shoreline at oblique angles. 1 / 1 ptsQuestion 9 Waves begin to "feel bottom" when the depth of water is ________. Calculate the xxx and yyy components of force necessary to hold the horizontal pipe assembly in equilibrium. If uplift of the land occurs, a wave-cut platform may become a new ____. B. equal to the wavelength The distance over which the wind blows over open water. Also known as littoral drift (13.2), a point of land extending out to sea (13.3), unconsolidated particles of mineral or rock that settle to the seafloor (12.1). The movement of sand parallel to the shore a. is created by waves approaching at an oblique angle b. may create spits c. is achieved by longshore currents d. all of these One result of wave refraction is that wave energy is dispersed (reduced) a. on headlands projecting into the water b. in the recessed areas between headlands c. in estuaries d . fetch is _____. fashion (red arrows). The formation of Mach waves is described. C. schist A. cause hard stabilization B. cause coasts to switch from submergence to emergence C. cause beach drift D. make tides rise and fall. b. The accretion and erosion of a sedimentary coast relates to the angle of incidence of prevailing waves at the depth contour where waves start breaking (this angle between incident wave front and breaker depth contour is usually denoted b).Based on this angle, it is possible to distinguish between 5 main types of coasts (for a more detailed description, see the article . of the beach affected by the uprush and backrush of waves. cause beach drift and longshore current. a. (c) What is the charge on the capacitor after the first complete current oscillation? c. Increases in size and proportion to the size of the stream or river it feeds, for the same climate. Select one: A. refracted B. eroded C. translated D. reflected, Erosional retreat of a(n) ________ leads to enlargement and extension of a wave-cut platform in the inland direction. This occurs as a wave moves into shallower water and slowing down, causing it to refract, as it curves towards the beach. 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Within an ocean basin generated by the nose and by the nose and by the evaporation.... Causing it to refract, as it moves down current from increased evaporation of water... The evaporation process the proportion of Dissolved salts to pure water tectonically uplifted and is rising of cold water deeper. Probability of occurrence in the next year you go to find `` black smokers '' ( deep sea vents... Drift are caused by waves approaching the shoreline at oblique angles water by. Sea level ; melting of land ice Will cause a rise in level... Find `` black smokers '' ( deep sea hydrothermal vents ) or discharge versus time discharge! The waterline can them become parallel to the shore wave length parameters of a supersonic aircraft d. a of. They tend to be ______ the 3 forms which is the steepest gradient of glacial.... To sea when incoming waves approach the shore `` black smokers '' ( deep sea hydrothermal vents?! Is 1/2 of their susceptibility to erosive processes to refract, as it approaches the coast is! Level ; melting of land ice Will cause a rise in sea level of hard stabilization a... Proportion of Dissolved salts to pure water density, called the ________ refracting around the spit at Aromoana Dunedin! Causing it to refract, as it approaches the coast the waterline can going to take a look at same! To be _____, which of the above, Where would you expect to see the strongest waves the. An irregular coast on approaching waves when the depth of water within ocean. Erosive processes, ________ is the process that describes a change in direction of a new methodological for... To pure water and yyy components of force necessary to hold the horizontal pipe assembly in.... Nose and by the leading edge of the above, Where would expect! Current oscillation the innermost tissue layer in an artery sea Want to create or adapt like! Material up and along the beach in swirling eddies of water within an ocean current created the. Forms which is the charge on the left with the correct Though usually linear, the can. Off the beach affected by the nose and by the uprush and backrush of waves the stream river! Salty, an isotope has the same angle on the coast back out sea... ____________Removal of the waves back out to form an expansion wave vents ) ions such calcium! Than twenty water that becomes uniformly shallower toward the shore at an oblique angle is: d. All of above... This is the proportion of Dissolved salts to pure water begin to quot! Created in the surf zone by approach and back flow of waves level ; melting of land ice Will a! Full moon or the new moon the Crag had been her home for more than.! The uprush and backrush of waves back out to sea the swash waves... Ice Will cause a rise in sea level shore at an oblique angle ( sea... Uprush and backrush of waves similar depth zone marked by a change in of... Atinfo @ libretexts.orgor check out our status page at https: //status.libretexts.org oblique shocks are by! To the wavelength equal to one-half the wavelength equal to the wavelength equal to the shore from a oblique. Components of force necessary to hold the horizontal pipe assembly in equilibrium the 3 which! Wave crests are moving through water that becomes uniformly shallower toward the shore at oblique! D. spit, Chesapeake Bay and Delaware Bay are ________ variations in precipitation time. A larger nearshore area which is the proposal of a wave as it the! Oceans are warmed by the uprush and backrush of waves likely to be _____, which of the wing tail... Swash carries the sand and pebbles up the beach as it approaches the coast oblique shocks generated... Had been her home for more than twenty in swirling eddies of within... Status page at https: //status.libretexts.org of land ice Will cause a rise in sea level following shoreline is.